25 top tastes of New Jersey
BY BROOKE M. TARABOUR
FOR THE STAR-LEDGER
Gina's Bakery
110 Walnut St., Montclair
(973) 233-1010
Once inside this charming little yellow shop on Walnut Street, you'll find a small, but intriguing selection of uncommon breads, pastries and pies.
Owner Eugene Walters baked at New York's renowned Amy's Breads for a few years before buying Gina's in August 2000, and his quirky take on some of Amy's classic recipes -- along with a few of his own -- are really worth the trip. I love the traditional Mexican pan de muerto, round bread dusted with sugar that's sort of a cross between brioche and babka. His rye bread is the real deal; if you loved the strong stuff you found in neighborhood bakeries in places like Brooklyn and Newark as a kid, this is for you.
If you're craving dessert, there are some good choices at Gina's, like a stellar rugelach, plum upside-down cake or special occasion cakes made with delicious, creamy, European-style butter cream. They're all worth trying.
However, the real news at Gina's is the pies. I brought a mixed berry pie to friends who really know good food, and they judged it to be "The best. Ever." All of Walters' pies are made from fresh fruit, so the selection varies with the season, but his towering, lattice-crusted apple pies made with three pounds of apples are always available. Feel free to talk to Walters about his baking; he is so enthusiastic, it's contagious. There are always samples of bread and pastries out on the counter, and you're encouraged to try a little of this, a little of that. Be careful, though: It leads to buying a lot of this, and a lot of that.
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